DONI'S
SOUTH AFRICA TRIP
SANDTON
SUN & TOWERS HOTEL
SOUTH AFRICA
MARCH 25 TO 29, 1997
Everyone in Johannesburg kept saying the rainy season was
over, but it kept coming down. We toured by coach, peering
through the rain streaked windows at the zebras and their
unidentifiable friends huddled under the trees and hidden
in the bushes. So we toured downtown Jo'burg, peering at
the masses of humanity huddled under umbrellas. Since it
was raining, we went to Pretoria and visited the American
Embassy where we were briefed on our friendship goals, economic
goals, etc. Very illuminating! It's a beautiful embassy
and grounds, great looking cafeteria/restaurant; however,
the food was a little strange. The "deli" sandwich consisted
of a round "loaf" of bread, split horizontally and filled
with lettuce, sliced tomato, two cheeses, chicken pieces,
two sliced meats(?) and eggs (fried). Four people could
not do away with it. It stood at least 6 inches high. Returned
to Jo'burg following lunch with the Embassy staff and boarded
the plane for Zimbabwe.
VICTORIA
FALLS HOTEL VICTORIA FALLS,
ZIMBABWE
MARCH 29 TO 31,
1997
Flew to Victoria Falls, which are truly incredible. From
the hotel, several miles away, we thought we were looking
at a fog bank. They are gigantic, much larger than Niagara.
Within a half mile of the Falls, raincoats and umbrellas
are a necessity. The mist nearly reaches the Hotel easily
five miles away. Armed with my camera, raincoat and hat,
I shot backgrounds of grotesque water soaked trees covered
in moss and hanging vines, semi-tropical foliage, elephant
eared plants next to fan palms, all back dropped by mist
and rainbow lighting as if seen through a prism. This rainforest
type habitat was so totally different from the African landscape
We'd been seeing, it was totally fascinating; the greens
were lush, emerald to lime and the amazing miniature flowers
were multi-hued and tucked everywhere. Every leaf dripping,
everything enveloped in mist, like walking through cotton
wool, the roar of the falls seemed to swallow all other
sounds. Game reserves and safaris surround the area, but
our next stop was the fabulous MalaMala, so toured the nearby
Elephant Hills area briefly, seeing several varieties of
antelope and the ubiquitous wart hogs, then ran for the
verandah and high tea when it started to rain again.
MALAMALA
RATTRAY RESERVES MAIN CAMP SKUKUZA,
SOUTH
AFRICA
MARCH 31 TO APRIL 2,
1997
MalaMala is a private game reserve adjacent to Kruger National
Park, considered by most as the finest and best appointed
game camp in Africa. Almost on arrival, we mounted the Range
Rovers with our ranger/guide, Rowan, very knowledgeable,
for an unusual afternoon/night game drive. The tracker seated
high in the rear used a spotlight, sweeping the veldt, pinning
the elusive nocturnal creatures. Emerging from the gate,
we almost came to blows with a solitary young male elephant
standing on the track and feeding on overhanging trees.
No problem, we headed cross country and left him the track,
scattering partridge type birds perched in trees, kudu in
bushes and black backed jackals looking for a kill. Coming
over a rise, we spotted a lion pride on parade, starting
out for the night's hunt. The matriarch led, followed by
adult lionesses, then cubs, in order of age and size. About
a hundred yards behind came the abundantly maned male. As
they were only beginning their foray, we left them, again
driving cross country over bushes and small trees. Our ranger/driver,
Rowan, suddenly wheeled about and there, about a hundred
yards away, was the elusive leopard poised in a thicket,
the light reflecting off her markings. Within seconds, she
slipped soundlessly away. The rangers are in constant communication
by radio, so Rowan turned again and roared back, picking
up the lion pride, now stalking a cape buffalo. The northern
area of Mala Mala, several square miles, has a most unique
lion population. The area is dominated by three brothers,
litter mates, with very strong bonds. We observed them greeting,
nuzzling and showing mutual respect and affection. They
are full grown males and rule and share 4 groups of lionesses
and cubs. Together, they acquired control of these prides
by joining forces and killing their predecessors. Customarily,
male lions compete rather than share. These three combine
forces to hunt, as they were this night. After about 4 hours
scouring the bush, we headed to camp for a fabulous late
supper under the stars and a huge ebony tree in a palisaded
area around a huge fire with our ranger/guide, Rowan, hearing
more bush stories about the animals. Saw a variety of antelope,
waterbuck, bushbuck, impala, kudu, nyala, gemsbok and the
rarely seen roan antelope.
At 5:30 each morning, the phone rings, coffee arrives, and
by 6:00 we were mounted and on our way. We spot a leopard
stalking a wart hog. She follows at a safe interval, keeping
bushes and tall grasses between herself and her target.
The wart hog appears nervous, looking about warily and making
short burst runs. The leopard very carefully stays hidden,
but moves in closer and closer, crouching when her prey
straightens and looks about. Suddenly, she stands her full
height, stretches, yawns and strolls away, as if it had
all been a game or practice session. At dusk during our
evening game drive, we were blessed with a glimpse of the
king cheetah, the rarest of creatures, believed to be a
mutated throwback, as it has jaguar like markings down the
spine and for 6 to 8 inches down the back with all the other
markings totally cheetah. We picked her up with binoculars,
but could not get closer before she disappeared in the bush.
Our last morning, as we crossed the river, the hippos were
bashing about in the water, roaring in chorus, apparently
admonishing a youngster standing on the bank. As if in farewell,
all the animals seemed to appear. The two rhinos clunked
along beside the road, a mother elephant with two young
ones looked about to charge the rover as we came unexpectedly
around a bend. It was no contest, we sat quietly, hardly
breathing in fact, until she decided we were no threat and
returned to her breakfast. Generally, the animals have learned
the range rovers are non-threatening and not prey and ignore
them, showing mild irritation occasionally at the noise.
However, you are cautioned to remain totally within the
vehicle, because if you dismount, you are now an instant
target.
If you are fortunate enough to successfully track down Africa's
"Big Five" at MalaMala, the Lion, Cape Buffalo, Rhinoceros,
Leopard and Elephant, you are presented with certification
on departure and become a permanent member of the Big Five
Club.
ROYAL
HOTEL DURBAN DURBAN,
SOUTH
AFRICA
APRIL
2 TO 6, 1997
Reluctantly,
we left MalaMala, where every room has his and hers bathrooms,
for the exotic city of Durban. Golf Digest rates Durban
Country Club in the top ten in the world. Gary Player rates
it the finest in South Africa. We took a day to play golf
and meet some wonderful South Africans. Pat and Mal entertained
us royally, driving and touring the entire urban and surrounding
countryside. We discussed their economic concerns and where
the new government is going: urban renewal and housing developments
around golf courses are sprouting everywhere on land formerly
inhabited by native population and wild animals. Conservation
of their natural resources, both mineral and animal, is
a very big concern of the people in general. Another huge
concern are the 4 to 7 million illegal aliens from their
neighboring countries, which have swelled the ranks of the
unemployed and created massive overcrowding in already overpopulated
areas.
Visually,
Durban is a city of riotous color from multi-shaded bougainvillea,
jacaranda trees, acacias in many shades and flowering shrubs
of every color and size.
MOUNT
NELSON HOTEL CAPE TOWN,
SOUTH
AFRICA
APRIL
6 TO 10, 1997
Our
last stop is Cape Town where we visited the Cape of Good
Hope in rare sunshine; photographed the Atlantic and Indian
oceans from Table Top Mountain; wine tasted at Stellenbosch,
which is the center of the wine country (they have some
outstanding shiraz wines); and shopped on the waterfront.
The South Africa experience is unique. These very interesting
people have lived in a fascinating part of the world during
a historical period of turmoil and radical change and their
stories, past and present, are truly remarkable and thought
provoking. Our countries have many similar and mutual problems
and concerns. As a whole, they are optimistic about the
future and believe the economy will continue to improve
and that dealing with the illegal aliens and 50% unemployment
will just take time and patience. Recently,
South
Africa formed a National Parks Board with broad influence
in game protection and parks management, which has made
major progress in programs protecting the animals in the
parks and in the wild.
